La Paz Batchoy: Iloilo's Pork and Beef Noodle Soup
La Paz batchoy is the noodle soup of Iloilo City: egg noodles in a rich pork, beef and shrimp broth, topped with sliced pork, beef, liver, crushed chicharon, fried garlic and green onion. The broth is savory and a little sweet from the shrimp, and every spoonful has a bit of crunch.
About La Paz Batchoy
Batchoy (also spelled batsoy) is a noodle soup that takes its best-known form in the La Paz district of Iloilo City. The name most likely comes from Hokkien, where it can mean minced meat or meat water, which fits a dish that is mostly pork and broth. Who made the first bowl is still argued over. One account credits a butcher named Federico Guillergan Sr., who opened a stall in the La Paz public market in 1938, while the founder of Ted's Oldtimer says he opened his shop in 1945, and other stalls claim earlier dates. What all the stories agree on is the market, the pork and the noodles.
A real La Paz batchoy bowl has four parts. There is the broth, built from pork and beef bones and flavored with shrimp. There are the noodles, fresh round egg noodles called miki. There are the meats: tender pork, beef and liver, sliced thin. And there is the topping, crushed pork rind, fried garlic and green onion, with a raw egg cracked on top if you like. It is often eaten with a puto on the side.
Ingredient notes
- Pork bone and beef shank: the base of the broth. The bones give body and the shank gives sweetness and meat to slice.
- Shrimp and shrimp paste: the flavor that sets batchoy apart. Simmer the shrimp heads and shells in the stock, and strain a spoonful of guinamos (shrimp paste) into the pot for depth.
- Pork liver and heart: the traditional offal. Liver is optional if you do not like it, but it is what gives batchoy its name and character.
- Egg noodles (miki): fresh round egg noodles hold up in hot broth. Dried egg noodles or fresh lomi noodles also work.
- Pork rind (chicharon): crush it just before serving so it stays crisp on top of the soup.
Tips for the best La Paz Batchoy
- Blanch the bones first. Boil the bones and beef for five minutes, then drain and rinse them. This keeps the broth clear instead of cloudy.
- Keep the simmer gentle. A hard boil makes the broth muddy and the meat stringy. Skim any foam that rises.
- Cook the liver last. Liver goes grainy and bitter when overcooked. Poach it for only three to four minutes, until it just loses its pink.
- Strain the shrimp paste. Mash it with a ladle of hot stock first and pass it through a sieve, so the broth tastes of shrimp but stays smooth.
- Salt the broth, not the noodles. Taste the stock before serving and adjust with fish sauce, since the toppings are salty too.
- Build each bowl hot. Warm the bowls, cook the noodles at the last minute and pour boiling broth over everything so the liver and egg cook gently in the bowl.
What to serve with La Paz Batchoy
Batchoy is a full meal in a bowl. In Iloilo it is often served with a Puto on the side, and a little calamansi or chili vinegar on the table for those who want a sharper broth.
Variations and substitutions
- Without offal: skip the liver and heart and use more pork loin.
- Chicken stock base: some cooks use chicken stock instead of beef and pork bones for a lighter broth.
- Batchoy Tagalog: a different dish from Quezon province, made with finely chopped seasoned pork offal wrapped in banana leaf and boiled.
- Noodles: use fresh miki, dried egg noodles or Lomi noodles if that is what you can find.
Storing and reheating
Store the broth, the sliced meats and the noodles separately in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The broth also freezes well for a month. Reheat the broth to a full boil, warm the meat in it for a minute, and cook fresh noodles for each bowl. Crush the chicharon and fry the garlic fresh.
Frequently asked questions
What is La Paz batchoy made of?
Egg noodles in a pork, beef and shrimp broth, topped with sliced pork, beef and liver, crushed pork rind, fried garlic and green onion. Some bowls also get a raw egg.
Why is it called La Paz batchoy?
It is named after La Paz, the district of Iloilo City where it became famous, around the public market. The word batchoy is thought to come from Hokkien.
Can I make batchoy without liver or offal?
Yes. Use more pork loin or add sliced pork belly. The flavor will be milder, but it is still good.
Is batchoy the same as lomi?
No. Lomi is a thick, starchy noodle soup from Batangas. Batchoy has a clearer broth and a lot more pork, beef and crunchy toppings.
