Bicol Express: Pork in Spicy Coconut Milk with Shrimp Paste
Bicol Express is a Filipino dish of pork belly simmered in coconut milk, shrimp paste (bagoong alamang) and plenty of chilies until the sauce is thick, creamy and spicy. This Bicol Express recipe is ready in about an hour, and you can add long beans (sitaw) or eggplant (talong) if you want vegetables in the pot.
About Bicol Express
Bicol Express is a fiery Filipino dish of pork simmered in coconut milk, shrimp paste (bagoong alamang) and plenty of chilies. The name is said to come from the train route that connected Manila and the Bicol region, where cooking with coconut milk and chilies is a way of life. The sauce is thick, creamy and spicy, and it is a perfect companion to steamed rice.
The best Bicol Express is cooked slowly so that the coconut milk reduces and the oil separates, giving a rich, glossy sauce. The shrimp paste brings salty, funky depth, and the chilies bring heat and aroma. It is a dish that tastes better the longer it simmers and the next day.
Ingredient notes
- Pork belly: its fat enriches the sauce. Shoulder works for a leaner version.
- Coconut milk: use full-fat coconut milk; light versions do not thicken properly.
- Shrimp paste: adds salty-savory depth. Sauté it first to mellow the raw smell.
- Chilies: siling labuyo brings intense heat; long green chilies add flavor and a milder spice.
Tips for the best Bicol Express
- Render the pork first. Cook it until the fat melts and the edges brown to flavor the sauce.
- Sauté the shrimp paste. A minute in the hot oil removes the raw edge.
- Simmer gently. A gentle simmer keeps the coconut milk smooth until it thickens.
- Add chilies in stages. Whole chilies perfume the sauce; sliced chilies add more heat.
- Cook until the oil separates. This is the traditional sign that the sauce is ready.
What to serve with Bicol Express
Serve Bicol Express with plenty of steamed rice. A cool side such as sliced cucumber, tomatoes or a simple vegetable salad balances the heat.
Variations and substitutions
- Less spicy: use mild green chilies and remove the seeds.
- Seafood version: use shrimp or squid instead of pork.
- Vegetarian: use squash, eggplant and long beans.
- With greens: add chili leaves or spinach at the end.
Storing and reheating
Refrigerate for up to 4 days and reheat gently. The sauce thickens on standing, so add a little water or coconut milk. It freezes reasonably well for up to 2 months.
Frequently asked questions
Is Bicol Express very spicy?
It is meant to be spicy, but you control the heat through the type and number of chilies.
Why did my sauce split?
A hard boil can make coconut milk separate. Simmer gently, or embrace it: in Bicol cooking the separated oil is expected.
What can I use instead of shrimp paste?
Fish sauce plus a little miso or fermented bean paste gives some of the depth, though the flavor will differ.
Who invented Bicol Express?
The dish is credited to a Manila restaurant in the 1970s that adapted Bicolano flavors, though the cooking style is traditional to the Bicol region.
